Ca La Bionda
Veneto
In 1997, Pietro Castellani took possession of the old winery, named ‘Ca la Bionda’ by his grandfather in 1902, and its surrounding hillside vineyards.
He promptly handed control to his sons: Alessandro in the winery and Nicola in the vineyards.
This strong decision displayed an enormous faith (both are in their early twenties) which is being fully repaid. The 90,000 bottles could be sold several times over in Italy alone.
It took us two years to be allocated a single bottle and we were the first UK merchant to import the wines. Alessandro is basically a traditionalist and believes in minimum intervention in winemaking and an exacting selection from the harvest. Close to his heart is Casel Vegri, a wine made from a particular ‘cru’ (site) which loses not a single grape to Amarone or Recioto. It is a unique wine, made with the sort of attention a premier cru Burgundy might deserve, but not receive. It is an intoxicating wine, with great elegance, which may yet be their best.
At present that title goes to the Amarone from Ravazzol, unashamedly huge with an unusually honest 16% alcohol on the label (this unfortunately puts it in the same duty category as Port).
For me the Recioto is the star in a stellar stable, black d’Yquem, perfection. I find it hard to believe these wines can improve, yet I am sure they will.
Website: http://www.calabionda.it